Graduates Thrill With 'Risk-Taking' End of Year Catwalk at Regent's University London
On Thursday 19 May, 2016, Regent’s University London’s Fashion graduate class of 2016 presented their final collections at the Marylebone Theatre in the heart of London. The spirit of the night was a promising glimpse of the future, with the students showcasing their stunning and contemporary pieces on the catwalk for the very first time. Teachers, family, and other industry creatives present at the show were impressed by the risk-taking collections which, despite coming from the same class, revealed a strong sense of individuality and authenticity.
All of the 12 Fashion Design students’ collections demonstrated a terrific effort matched by pioneering techniques. The class showed an intense focus on womenswear, with the exception of one menswear collection inspired by Kenyan tribalism, produced by student Victoria Mutali. The multi-faceted collections spanned from full on dark (Irinka Preda) and rock aesthetics (Mercy Muir-Wyett), to playful glittery oversized shapes (Gemma Edwards), and more traditional and sensitive womenswear (Jess Ryan). There was a general preference for asymmetrical silhouettes and sculpted forms concerning outerwear and dresses in particular. Several students also opted for body-revealing materials such as plastic and satin, which further enhanced the bold and daring essence of this class.
On the runway, the entire class of 2016 looked fierce. However, the highlight of the night was the 28-year old designer from Norway, Christine Smith Egeland. Her final collection 'Unquiet Mind' was awarded several fashion books from sponsor Bloomsbury Publishing. The prize included a signed copy of ‘Creative Fashion Illustration’ by Stuart McKenzie, who is also a lecturer at Regent’s University London.
Egeland's collection portrays the human psyche and the emotional aspect of anxiety as one tries to find their place in the world. It represents the idea of restriction forced upon us. "As a designer, I struggled with my own anxiety concerning modern society," adding at the end of the show: "I was worried about the preconceived ideas of how I had to be and live to become the best in all aspects of life. 'Unquiet Mind' is the visual representation of these ideas."
Despite her concerns, Egeland's collection confirms her inventive madness. Her pieces revealed a distinct and avant-garde design approach, which are predominantly dark, yet romantic and feminine at the same time. The young designer approaches fashion like an artisan. Working as a sculptor, she has created uncanny silhouettes swinging around the body, exaggerating form by adjusting stuffed circular shapes around the designs’ edges. Her pieces have a futuristic-inspired mood, which at times resembled the work of Japanese designer, Junya Watanabe.
Throughout the collection, there was a significant use of toned-down galaxy patterns, which gradually shifted towards more monotone pieces. One look stood out particularly, a multi-layered embroidered skirt that unravelled from the waist as the model stepped on the catwalk. Egeland is a major talent. At the end of the show, she concluded, "I feel relieved and excited. Finally seeing it on the catwalk definitely made it worth it!”
Also interesting was the re-adaptation of Imperial Russian fashion by Irinka Preda. The designer brought to life this particular period of time with the use of long and dark shaded feathers. They were applied all around the neck and over the shoulders, conveying the female silhouette authority and savagery at the same time. Another highlight of the evening was student Rhia Robinson with her collection 'Fit to Burst.' Key items were the oversized sweaters, which incorporated jersey, bubble wrap, and faux fur, along colourful abstract patterns to reflect the idea of air, comfort and leisure all in one range.
At the end of the show, everyone in the audience looked delighted and intrigued by what they had seen on the runway. Despite the excitement, there was an emerging feeling of nostalgia growing amongst students and teachers. As the night was coming to an end, there was the sad realisation that this chapter of their life had also concluded. Above all, what was the most impressive were the efforts the students applied to make all their hard work look easy on the catwalk, leaving us with just the best parts to enjoy.
Greta Blu Donna
The Regent’s Fashion and Design shows are now open to the public at the University’s Marylebone Campus until 3 June, 2016.
Top Row: Christine Smith Egelund
Middle Row: Victoria Khasandi Mutali
Bottom Row: Mercy Muir-Wyett
