LONDON FASHION WEEK: How Do A Producer, PR, and a Designer Cope With Fashion Week?
Leading fashion writer Julia Robson is After Nyne's key reporter at London Fashion Week. She's gone behind the scenes to ask key figures about their Fashion Week experience.
THE SHOW PRODUCER - LEE LAPTHORNE
JR: What time did you get up this morning?
LL: I slept for 5 hours. I haven't exactly been sleeping recently as I'm a one man band and I suppose I've been wired with a mixture of "things to do" and excitement of the challenges ahead.
As a director / producer you learn quickly to think on your feet and find the best solution to problems - quickly and effectively. This season hasn't been without its challenges. For instance venue owners last minute (1 day before our build day) decisions to change our guest entrance from one side of the of the venue to the other, crew and client load in and out entrance change 12 hours to the event and cancellation of our Sunday show day following confirmation of our published schedule. These unforeseen restrictions meant 24 hours to redesign the set to accommodate and re branding of Phonica Records store (our new event entrance). It was essential to make a clear path guest experience through the backstage area. During the day we had 5 shows running in tandem and during the morning 4 models cancelled the On|Off Presents show. I therefore juggled a multitude of questions from all angles from clients whilst calling agents for replacements. Replacement models were found and confirmed to only then have a model pull 1 hour to call time - luckily with a model agent on my speed dial I was able to rectify
What was the best and worst moments of the day?
I loved the On|Off Presents show as this was my show. I art directed and selected the designers to showcase. The designers’ collections looked amazing. I also thought that the live act I booked Lucia Fontaine was amazing and rocked my set.
My worst moment of the day was waking up to thunderstorms to then dealing with a leaking venue. Its my job then to ensure the crew and guests were safe and dealing with the venue owners constant changes to guest and crew entrance points. London has a shortage of venues that have a good capacity suitable for fashion events.
What are you wearing now?
Typically my outfit is head-to-toe black. Always Todd Lynn sharp flattering tailoring and and McQueen boots that give me confidence. I produced Todd Lynn shows which are a favourite of mine and therefore I am lucky enough to have a ‘mates rates’ discount.
How do you cope with egos/nerves/eating/sleeping?
With a smile… Egos often arise in the environment I work in - its part of the job. Its always important to try to remember that the designers and teams have huge expectations for their show or presentation and have probably been working 24/7 in the run up. It helps to be honest and straight talking. Building trust is key. Communicating a solution when facing any issue is the best way to deal with any unforeseen problems as they arise. I never really get nervous. I heard that hospital doctors use the 6 P's perfect planning prevents piss poor performance… and I have to agree. I find it easy to multitask and with years of experience I have learnt to watch out for the curveballs that tend to fly at you on live productions.
Catwalks are unique in the sense that their is a huge build up and preparation for an intense 10/15minute live show. I do try and get fit before a big gig and I find running through local countryside at home helps to build my stamina for the long days ahead. This season, not only have I organised all marketing, website design content, newspaper, photoshoot and preview film, press, venue, direction and selection of designers but also producing 13 individual shows with 27 designers. It also relaxes the mind and I also find that I can focus more.
I rely on my faithfull staff to put food and bottled water into my hands to eat, otherwise I forget. Luckily I'm a deep sleeper and usually with off once my head hits the pillow.
What was your biggest worry today?
My Biggest worried today was whether the owner was going to make any further last minute demanding changes to the venue that continue to challenge the client and guest experience.
What will stand out as your lasting memory/outstanding moment of the show today?
How powerful Lucia Fontaine's performance was at the On|Off Presents… a perfect backdrop to the amazing talents of Timothy Bouyez, Jayne Pierson, Luke Ronny and Laura Theiss.
THE FASHION PR - PORTIA SHAW OF POP PR
JR: What time did you get up this morning?
PS: 5am. I did a last minute mail out to our guests for the 5 shows we are managing reminding them about show times, address’s as well as contact details for each show. This is essential as most people are working back to back on their schedules and need a daily prompt. They often thank me for this as they tend to wake up not knowing what day it is. PR’s have to be organised. My team and I have reminders synced in our phones so we know where each one needs to be so there is no confusion. For SS17 we are hosting 18 separate events around London so managing our teams is key to ensuing press are efficiently catered to so they can deliver their press. My last show was at 7:30pm with an after party. I make an appearance at the beginning to thank guests for coming but I make a speedy exit so I can get at least 5 hours sleep in for the next day. I was home by 11:30 and in bed by just after midnight yesterday. The bulk of our work is organised well in advance so really the team are there on the day of each client’s show to manage backstage interviews and look after our VIP guests.
What was the best/worst moments of your day?
The best part is seeing the designers coming out of the runway smiling, their job is nearly done for the day and there is a huge sense of relief. This is probably on a par with when you look at the dailys and they have written about your designers, in a positive light!
The worst part of my day yesterday was having to turn away 100 guests to one of our clients shows. Sadly guests just don’t RSVP anymore. They turn up and think this is enough. It really isn’t. You wouldn’t turn up to a friend’s sit down dinner without confirming your attendance so it makes sense to do the same for this.
What are you wearing now?
Today I am wearing my black high waisted bell bottom McGuire jeans with a black high necked sleeveless body from Walford. My boots are by Sam Endelman (black ankle boot with a Cuban heel). I have a black leather studded cropped biker jacket on which is vintage and all of my jewellery is silver or white gold with black diamonds either by Pyrrha who are one of my clients or from The Shop at BlueBird. I rarely wear my own clients garments as it can be seen as favouritism however since Pyrrha don’t show at LFW it doesn’t offend anyone. I have a particular style, my clients know this and therefore don’t gift me as unless it is black or silver I tend not to wear it.
How do you cope with egos/nerves/eating/sleeping?
I deal with a lot of egos but I am relatively known within the venues we show and most people know I don’t tolerate any attitude. We are all here to do a job and it just needs doing efficiently by everyone.
I have been doing this for about a decade now. I sleep easy and eat well, I avoid to much coffee, fizzy drinks, carbs or sweets as I can’t bare the crash that comes after it. I hop into Itsu and eat their sashimi and I drink lots of ginger shots and raw veg drinks.
What was your biggest worry today?
My biggest worry for today is that I have 2 shows very close together, I personally need to be there and fear I won’t make it across town in time. I have a pair of trainers in my bag which I will slip into worst case and run for it if my car is stuck in traffic.
What will stand out as your lasting memory/outstanding moment of the show today?
My lasting memory of today was that I miss my boyfriend. He has gone to Ibiza for a wedding which I was invited to. I love my job and wouldn’t miss Fashion Week for the world but you do have to make some sacrifices and this is one of them sadly.
THE FASHION DESIGNER - GABRIEL VIELMA
JR: What time did you get up this morning?
GV: I went to bed around 12.30 in the morning - which for me is early. I wanted some good rest for the show next day…. and I got up 7am
What was the best/worst moments of your day?
The best moment was when the show started. My vision became alive and it was real and even better than I could have asked for. I was immersed in my dream and happy as I could be.
What are you wearing now?
Dolce & Gabbana bomber, Ralph Laren Shirt, Topshop Jeans, and Onitsuka Tiger trainer, and last but not least, Chanel Allure Sports.
How do you cope with egos/nerves/eating/sleeping?
I put my earphones in listening to meditation music to help me sleep; it works very well for me and has become a habit. My team calms and supports me; they are my confidants, so I don't feel overwhelmed and anxious before the show. I do, however, always get butterflies in my stomach just before the first model comes out.
What was your biggest worry today?
Unexpected circumstances, for instance, heels break, technologies malfunction, punctuality etc.ha ha
What will stand out as your lasting memory/outstanding moment of the show today?
Lucy Choi, a close friend, and a long-term collaborator, attended in person with her team who've overseen my growth from my very first collection. I'm very lucky to count her as a friend.
Julia Robson is a fashion journalist and lecturer at Regents University London www.regents.ac.uk
